February 17, 2012

A Visit to the Bo De Pagoda Buddhist Orphanage

Francis Parker School - South to North - Day Six

Following an early 5:00 am wake-up on a steamy Friday morning, we boarded our boat in the dark and headed to catch a bus that would take us to the closet airport to the Mekong Delta.

We boarded a non-stop flight to Hanoi and arrived before lunch to meet out new tour guide, Quan. Hanoi is a beautiful city, and immediately our group fell in love with the climate, which at 55 degrees and overcast was a wonderful change from low 90's with humidity at least that high in southern Vietnam. We bused for 1 hour from the airport to a wonderful lunch in the heart of Hanoi, which is part of the old "french quarter." We then proceeded to our hotel, where we checked in and unpacked for the next three nights. Following this we re-boarded our bus and headed out of Hanoi for the Bo De pagoda and Buddhist Orphanage.

As Eric Taylor and I had visited last year, we were immediately amazed by the amount of construction that had taken place in just 1 year. It was obvious that some significant funding had come through as new buildings had been completed and the facilities had improved dramatically from what we had experienced with our group in 2011. That being said, it is still heartbreaking to see so many children without parents living in some very difficult conditions. Our kids were wonderful in the way they immediately went to the children, picking them up, playing with them and sharing with them all of the clothes, toys, candy and stickers they had brought with them from the US. I promise you it will be a memory that our kids will cherish forever.

Following a tour of the pagoda, we were treated to a wonderful vegetarian meal by the monks. After saying good-bye, our kids sang all the way home, courtesy of the microphone on the bus and some encouragement by their peers. I sense the karaoke club may only be one night away!

Looking forward to a great day tomorrow as we visit Ho Chi Min's mausoleum as well as the Temple of Literature and other sites that this wonderful city has to offer.

Good night from Hanoi.

John Morrison

A Vietnamese Train Experience

Greetings friends and family! We trust that you are all well.

The night train to Sapa was definitely an experience we will never forget. Although some of us were not feeling very well, it was a bonding experience for all. There were two bunk-beds in each cabin which made for very cramped quarters. Let's just say we were happy to arrive in Lao Cai, one step closer to the fresh country air of Sapa. We got off the train at 6 am and boarded a bus en route to our final destination. The journey was long and winding, which wasn't exactly beneficial to our sick passengers. The change in scenery was drastic; from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi to the serene countryside of the Vietnamese highlands. It was a change that most of us probably needed.


When we finally arrived in Sapa at 8 am, we immediately went to an American breakfast buffet. Complete with crepes and fried eggs, the breakfast was a great way to start the morning. Then we dropped our bags off at the hotel, freshened up and began our seven kilometer trek. Along the way, we were swarmed by the persistent Black Hmong tribeswomen who tried to sell us their handmade goods. We were amazed by their proficiency in the English language since their only practice came from interaction with tourists. We had trouble declining their offers because we wanted to help them out.

Anyway, back to the hike. Even with the tribeswomen following close behind, we managed to make it down to a village in the valley. There were lots of trinket shops lining the trail. It was difficult to resist looking through them all even though they all sold the same souvenirs and handicrafts. One specific instance that stuck out was entering a local house. It was humbling to see the impoverished conditions that they lived in. It broke out hearts to see a small child sitting alone in a smoke-filled room, but also made us so grateful for what we have at home. The sun came out just in time for the culmination of our hike: a beautiful waterfall surrounded by lush, green vegetation.

The rest of the afternoon was devoted to exploring the quaint town of Sapa. As the fog rolled in, we meandered from shop to shop, some of us taking advantage of the cheap massages and others simply resting. After a quick European dinner, we headed back to the hotel and gladly went to our beds. Tomorrow is a village homestay. YAY

Matt, Patrick, and Maddie

February 16, 2012

A Visit to "The Girl in the Picture" Kim Phuc's Family Home

Francis Parker School - South to North - Day Three

Today was a very fun and eventful day. Our first major event was a visit to Kim Phuc's family's house. However, along the way our tour guide, Mr. Hao, was kind enough to tell us his life story.  Like most Vietnamese citizens Mr. Hao was affected by the Vietnam War. He was forcibly enlisted in the Vietnamese army and fought in Cambodia against his father's wishes. Their relationship was shattered by Hao's service time and also their family's house was confiscated. After the war was over, Hao rebuilt his relationship with his father, getting his father's house back. Learning of Hao's story taught us about the social turmoil after the Vietnam War from a soldier's standpoint. Next we arrived at Kim Phuc's house. We watched a documentary before meeting Kim's sister-in-law. Kim Phuc, "the girl in the picture," provided great insight into the path and power of reconciliation. She forgave all those who harmed and managed to transform the atrocities of her scars into a memorial for peace and hope.

After seeing Kim's family, we visited the neighboring Cao Dai temple, which infused aspects of Confucianism, Taoism, Catholicism, and Buddhism. The four religions were combined through the architecture and orientation of religious service. The spiritual leaders of the Cao Dai emphasized  the virtues of living a simple life in search for enlightenment.

We traveled to Cu Chi to see the network of underground tunnels used by the south during the war. We learned of the tunnels' functions and how they supported the South Vietnamese against the Americans. We also watched a Northern Vietnamese propaganda video that presented a new perspective on the war through  the eyes of a communist fighter. The tunnels were awe-inspiring to say the least. Inside the tunnels, there were complex designs consisting of planning rooms, smoke chimneys, air holes, and even underwater entrances. We crawled in an enlarged tunnel, which was fit for Americans. The original tunnels were barely large enough for us larger-framed Americans to crawl through.
The rest of the day consisted driving through the Mekong Delta and celebrated a chaperone's birthday.

—Christine Buckley

Revisiting the Friendship Village

Francis Parker School - North to South - Day Four

To begin the day, a few of the students decided to wake up at the crack of dawn (5 am) to attend a traditional Catholic mass. Besides the mass being delivered in Vietnamese, the only difference from the services at home was that the men and women sat on opposite sides of the church. For those who were willing to sacrifice a few hours of sleep, it was a great, early start to the day!

Overall, the morning was slower than usual. We were given free time to sleep in, shop, and eat outside of the hotel. About half of the group went to a local family-owned restaurant in the heart of downtown Hanoi. We were treated to rolling cakes and fried eel - a traditional Vietnamese breakfast.

Before lunch, everyone packed up to embark on an overnight train to Sapa. We checked out of the Imperial Hanoi Hotel, loaded up the bus with our suitcases, while others opted for the carry-on backpack. Then we were ready to start the day!

We had a quick lunch and headed over to the Friendship Village. Everyone was very excited to return and visit the children we played with on Monday. Little did we know that our visit would include gardening and talking with North Vietnamese war veterans. It was difficult work, as most of the area was overgrown with weeds and infested with bugs. We spent a large portion of the afternoon using rusty hoes and sickles to clean up the garden. However, much to our surprise, it was an enriching and rewarding experience. While working, we were able to reflect on the fortunate circumstances we enjoy at home and appreciate the efforts of those who work at the Friendship Village.

Afterwards, we walked to the other side of the village to engage in a discussion with Vietnam War veterans. Alex, our extremely well-dressed guide, translated our questions and the veterans' responses. However, we noticed that when it came to the subject of politics, the veterans and Alex tried steering the conversation in a different direction. This is not the first time we've noticed this; it is clear the Communist government has an influence over what tour guides and maybe even the regular people are allowed to discuss. Overall, though, it was a unique opportunity to be able to see and hear stories from the other side.

After leaving the Friendship Village, we headed to the famous Hanoi art gallery Mai. The gallery was a mixture of abstract and more traditional oil paintings. One painting in particular stood out among the bunch. It illustrated two rows of mice, each holding something different. The top row showed four mice and a cat holding up his paw, stopping them from walking further. A mice on this top row was holding money and the others were holding cheese and personal goods. The bottom row displayed mice who were helping each other carry other, less-materialistic goods and instead of a cat at the end, there was a mouse riding a motorcycle with the word "dream" inscribed on the side. A few of us interpreted this painting as a comparison between a capitalist and communist society. This message did not seem unusual, based on the slightly biased propaganda we have noticed this week.

The rest of our day, we shopped around the city while some went back to the hotel to rest. A few of us are battling the stomach flu, but are now easing back into good health.

To finish off the night, we ate at an American food restaurant. The spaghetti was a hit, but then how can you go wrong with marinara and pasta? The pizza on the other hand...

Tonight we will board the night train to begin our trip to Sapa in northern 'nam!

 Kate, Ross, Michela, and Solia

February 15, 2012

Joey Benoit, Savannah Benes, and Walker Newton in Hanoi

North to South - Day Two

Our second full day in Vietnam has been busy to say the least! From cruising through the streets in rickshaws to an all-you-can-eat Vietnamese buffet, Valentine's Day in Vietnam has had a lot to offer. We have been up and out since 7:00am, and to be honest, we would rather be sleeping than writing this blog.
But like the beliefs of the Socialist government we are in, every small sacrifice counts for the betterment of the group! Hanoi by night awaits.

To begin the day, we hopped on the bus and went to the first University of Vietnam to explore the vast courtyards and listen to native music. A few of us will even be bringing home some Vietnamese instruments to play and master on our own! The quiet atmosphere was easily appreciated, since the last few days have been a bit hectic and confusing.

By far the creepiest part of our day was visiting Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. Upon arrival, we were greeted with the glares of military personnel, strictly monitoring all activities in the compound with stern faces and sharp bayonets. We then lined up and silently entered the mausoleum to be greeted by the sight of Ho Chi Minh himself, his cold hands resting on his thighs. We weren't expecting to see his body, so the experience was a bit harrowing for most of us. Still, it was humbling to see the man who had such a profound effect on the government and citizens of Vietnam. Then we toured the rest of the compound and saw where "Uncle Ho" had his beginnings. After learning about the modest accommodations Ho Chi Minh was used to, we were surprised by how his body was displayed openly to the public in such a pompous and extravagant way. Still, seeing Ho Chi Minh's compound put a lot of what we've learned in history class into perspective.

After visiting Ho Chi Minh, we headed to an all-you-can-eat buffet for lunch. The buffet was culturally diverse, ranging from sushi to french fries to fried maggots. We saw first hand how courteous the people of Vietnam are, and persistent when it comes to chowing down on chicken feet. Matsuo Chino especially enjoyed the sparrow brains, going back not only for seconds, but for sevenths.

One of the more anticipated activities followed the buffet - the "Hanoi Hilton", the prison where John McCain and dozens of other US Soldiers were contained and tortured during the war. Walking through the poorly lit cells, we could imagine the suffering that people underwent while chained by their ankles to the sloped, concrete floors. What brought the stories to life was the sight of the torture devices like electrical wires, gasoline buckets, and water-boards. The sacrifices made by the US Soldiers during the war are inspiring and their recognition is truly deserved, whether people believe in the war or not. Seeing the conditions of the prison helped us understand their hardships.

After a heart-pounding jaunt through Hanoi in rickshaws and a short break at the hotel, we hopped on the bus yet again and headed to a Buddhist Pagoda and met the orphans and veterans that live there. We passed out some donations and spent the next hour playing with the children. It was heartwarming to see the expressions of the orphans upon receiving their school supplies, clothes, and candy. Hopefully we will be able to see them again before we take the train to Sapa tomorrow.

So parents, as you can see, they are truly keeping us busy here in Vietnam. Needless to say, we are definitely getting your money's worth. Now off into the city to continue to explore and learn.

Joey Benoit, Savannah Benes, and Walker Newton

Reflections from Students Matthew Alessio and Meghan Babla

South to North - Day Two

For our first full day in Vietnam, we started the day at 7:30am with breakfast at the hotel. We were all jet lagged yesterday, so the full night's sleep was very welcome. Then we took the bus to the War Remnants Museum, which was a collection of artifacts and photos from the Vietnam War. It was very impactful on all of us-- it gave a completely new perspective on the war. We had been used to seeing it from an American view, but this museum showed the Vietnamese side of the story.

Some of the notable exhibits were the Agent Orange exhibit, which displayed photos of victims of the Agent Orange chemical. Also we saw a war crimes exhibit, which talked about some of the things American soldiers had done to the Vietnamese during the war. Outside of the museum was a replica of the prisons that held political prisoners. It talked about some of the torture they underwent, which was shocking.

From the museum, we visited the Reunification Palace, which was the palace of the ex-president in the old capital of South Vietnam. We learned about how Vietnam separated and then came to be as one complete country. Particularly interesting was the basement, which was the control center of the operations for the war and bomb shelter for the royal family.

Next, we visited the national post office, which reminded us of the DMV. From the outside of the building, we were able to see remnants of old French architecture, especially with the Notre Dame Cathedral replica across the street. At the post office, a few of us mailed letters and others looked around at the shops inside the post office. Then it was time for lunch. We had lunch at a nice restaurant and had egg drop soup, spiced rice, spring rolls, green beans, pho, and other tasty items.

After lunch, we went to the Saigon Market, which was a HUGE market filled with items ranging from groceries, to shirts, to jewelry, and other everyday items. We learned how to bargain and negotiate a price with the shop owners. Then we went to the Little Rose shelter, which was a home for girls aged 12-18 who were rescued from the sex trade. We got a tour of the small shelter and had a conversation with the shelter leader about how we, and Francis Parker as a whole, could aid them.

When the girls arrived at the shelter around 5pm, we worked on an art project with them-- decorating t-shirts. Then, our tour guide Hau led us in a few Vietnamese games, one which was a lot like the American game of rock-paper-scissors. We had some fun bonding moments and were very moved by the girls' stories. We learned a few Vietnamese phrases, such as "my name is" (toi ten lau) and "goodbye" (gam bih)--spelling not so sure.

The last part of our day was dinner at Restaurant Chateau, a nice restaurant that was really good at carving fruit. We had tempura-like vegetables, noodles, rice, soup in a coconut shell, sea bass, and chicken. Then we arrived back at the hotel and got ready for tomorrow! Starting tomorrow night and for the next few nights, we will be in the Mekong River delta and will have limited computer access. We look forward to sharing our experiences with you via blog when we return on Friday. Good night!

-Matthew Alessio and Meghan Babla

Francis Parker School Arrives in Vietnam

After a long journey the Francis Parker School groups arrive in Vietnam. Here are some reflections from their first day. 

North to South Vietnam

Our first day in Vietnam, we woke up at 7 a.m. and had breakfast at the highest floor of our hotel with a view of all of Hanoi. We then got on a bus with Alex, our tour guide, and drove to Friendship Village, an hour outside the city, and we got to see the outskirts of Hanoi. Friendship Village is a boarding school for children who are victims of Agent Orange disease. Many went home for Tet to spend it with their families, but most stayed. When we got to the village we were introduced to the head of the village who explained its purpose and history. We got a tour of the classrooms and left for a Pho lunch in the city. After we ate and went to the tea house, where we discussed the emerging Vietnamese free market system, we returned to the village to interact with the kids. We were greeted with hugs as we joined the kids in their classrooms. We played for an hour or so, exchanging gifts, coloring, playing with puzzles, and watching the more advanced kids do activities like embroidery. None of us wanted to leave, but we got back on the bus and journeyed back to the hotel. After some free time to explore Hanoi (in groups of three), some of us decided to test out our bargaining skills in crowded markets. We then headed out to another Pho dinner (pho all day erry day). After the delicious dinner we got home around eight and gathered to discuss the restrictions on going out at night. Many of us went out yet again to explore the nightlife of Hanoi; some stayed back to sleep. It's 8:30 in the morning and we're about to head out again- can't wait to see what Tom in 'Nam has planned for us!


South to North Vietnam

 We trust you are well. After a very long day of flying, busing, immigration and customing, and Ho Chi Minh City touring, the South-North Global Studies trip group in Vietnam has finished its first day of educational experiences for the 2012 academic year. In one long day's (or two) of traveling, the group left Francis Parker via chartered bus for LAX, and there for Tai Pei, and there then for Ho Chi Minh City. Because we arrived on Sunday in Vietnam, a traditionally quiet day when many of the city's sites are closed to public viewing, students enjoyed a leisurely afternoon and early evening during which they explored the busy city sites and sounds of the District 1 business community, all while reveling in two splendid authentic meals at a favored local culinary chem, "Pho-24."
With filled stomachs, exhausted bodies, and heavy expectations for what is to come in the next few days, students and chaperones go to bed tonight with high expectations for what comes next in our travels. Tomorrow (Monday in Vietnam, Sunday in San Diego), the group will explore several historical and cultural sites critical for anyone's understanding of the American (Vietnam) War dating from the 1960s and 1970s, as well as the postwar aftermath. The day will start with a visitation of the War Remnants Museum, an internationally recognized requiem to the need for finding reconciliation out of the wars that too often rip countries and their peoples apart. The trip continues with explorations of the Old French Quarter, highlighted with visits to Saigon's Notre Damn Cathedral and old city Opera House. After an eagerly anticipated scrumptious local lunch, the group will engage The Reconciliation Palace, a site best known as the presidential/​governmental headquarters for those South Vietnamese regimes that ultimately failed to keep Vietnam from going Communist in 1975 (despite their being backed by first French and then American governments). Finally, the group will visit the Little Rose Shelter (Mai Am Hoa Hong Nho) for a half day of cultural exchange. The Little Rose Shelter was established in 1992 in response to growing incidents of human trafficking in Vietnam; since its founding, Little Rose has provided a safe shelter to hundreds of young girls (and some boys) and has helped them build a positive economic future for themselves. The shelter also provides medical care, housing, food, and vocational training for the children, most of whom are eventually achieve placement into long-term homes within two years. What a day!
Another blog from the South-North trip will follow tomorrow, although there will be a bit of a lull in blogging as the group heads into a homestay in the Mekong River Delta my mid-week. As soon as possible the students will share with the Parker community their experiences in the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, and pass along many of the most memorable and meaningful parts of their travels.
Until then, take care. Everything is going splendidly.
Eric Taylor