March 24, 2013

Investigative Journalism - Day One


Impacts of Vietnam in Vientiane:

We awake after a 36 hour travel day in air-conditioned boutique-hotel comfort, a  short tree-lined walk from the Mekong Delta in this blossoming capital city. Our traveling troupe of educators and learners are in good health and high spirits. Arriving under cover of darkness in a foreign land is always mysterious: what new discoveries will daylight bring?

We are in Vientiane only for as long as it took us to travel here: by necessity, the learning curve -- our absorption and appreciation of the unknown --- will be rapid.

Built in the late 1880s as the French imperial center of Laos, Vientiane never enjoyed an infrastructure commitment the colonial authorities invested in the Indochina sister-nations next door, Vietnam and Cambodia.  Laos, perennially poor and bullied by outsiders, lacks exploitable-material resources, save its strategic significance in geopolitical power games over time. During the Eisenhower and Kennedy  administrations, it served as a stage for US-funded anti-communist covert operations, assassin training's  insurgency militia-fights-- failures, all. The Johnson and Nixon Executive actions elevated the violence against neutral Laos with a secret air war campaign which dropped over 260 million tons of bombs on ostensibly autonomous peasants over the course of 9 years (1963-1972). An estimated 80 million of those cluster bombs never exploded, littering 1/3 of the country and untold future generations following theVietnam War, with a plague of Unexploded Ordnance terrorizing their land. At least one Laotian person per day is maimed or killed by UXO each year. The explosion victims are often children. It costs $5,000 US dollars to clear one hectare of land. In a country where the average worker is lucky to make $100.00 per month, the cost of land clearance is literally a life's fortune.

We come to Laos today --- a dynamic history teacher, an accomplished video instructor, an award-winning journalist and 13 intrepid California teenagers --- to tell these stories. It's time to bring those living in the shadows of the Vietnam War to a more hopeful light.

This place was the unlikely host of an international convention accommodating 48 heads of state in 2012. Then-U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton graced Vientiane in July, visiting one cluster bomb victim, our blind, handless friend, Ponsavanh. Why the recent interest in landlocked little Laos? Its adjacency to the growing ASEAN nations--- and shared border with China, suggest the forces of geopolitics are again at work. The momentum of urban renewal is evident on the landscape, betraying less-than-secret economic ambitions. Miles of new concrete ribbon --- smooth modern streets, sidewalks, pathways and spacious look-out points--- line the river bank in anticipation of now- non-existent crowds. Appointed with manicured lawns, ornamental flowers, children's playgrounds, national tribute statues, courtyards and empty park benches, the muddy Mekong river front project tells a tale of transition. Safety barricades sporting futuristic images of the Vientiane "reborn" wall the dusty construction projects proceeding atop precarious scaffolding. The exterior wallpaper is meant as a PR statement reflecting a larger project plan. Passersby are expected to reconcile the developing-country noise and low-tech industry as building blocks of progression towards a chrome-and-high rise fantasy. "Shanghai!" the pictures tell us, is what Vientiane wants to be when it grows up.

Our students join us for breakfast on the breezy top floor of this teak-wood adorned  family-operated hotel. Laotian grace is evident in their kind hospitality: palms pressed together at heart-center, the patriarch bows a humble welcome "Sabaidee!" "Hello and welcome!" French windows surround us, yawning wide in the breezy morning light. Echoes of sunrise prayers emanate skyward from the ancient Buddhist monestaries below. Construction noise from the Mekong bank projects a mere two blocks away cannot be heard above the resonant spiritual chants. Each morning, they sing of timelessness: the only constant is change.

Shaking-off the ravages of long-distance air travel is easier for those under the age of 40; how lucky that energetic optimism is contagious! The students' enthusiasm for their Investigative Journalism Adventure takes shape in a brief informational seminar led by Emmy-award winner Jeff Macintyre. "Here's how it's done in the professional world," they learn, and one can see entirely new worlds of possibilities opening up in the stories they will tell.

The emerging concepts of their video projects are inspiring:

How does UXO impact the rural culture of childhood and family traditions?
How have villages harvested bomb remnants and repurposed their iron into useable tools?
What can the young survivors of Hiroshima inform us about the way forward for the child victims in Laos?
What are the challenges and obligations of UXO clean-up?
How has the Buddhist tradition of forgiveness served to silence individual outcry against UXO?

These broad-minded youth are here, dedicating their spring breaks and leisure,  their passion for a better world and talent for critical thinking to a significant effort. Theirs is the creative endeavor of making the incomprehensible understood, the abstractions of a long-forgotten (or altogether unknown) war real in the minds of today's global citizens. It's so much more than putting a human face on tragedy. It's discerning the best course of "what now?" a sympathetic audience might take. Call your congressperson? Donate money to UXO removal? Sponsor a victim's family? Hold a silent protest demonstration in your local community? Invest in prosthetics technology? Raise funds, increase awareness, get organized.... Their calls to action remain unknown, and entirely theirs to make and edit along the way.

In the meantime, Vientiane now absorbs construction project workers as it once did peasant war refugees. Foreign "interests" in Laos' precarious geographical significance appear to be the catalyst for both the historical and modern human migrations.

What if foreign investors bankrolling this urban growth were bound by national policy to donate 10% to UXO removal? It's estimated that China is investing 450 billion dollars in Laos over the next 5 years. The humanitarian implications of a "land clearance tariff" as the price of admission are staggering.

If there is anyone to make the argument for bold measures, it's these students. Watching them rise to the occasion is inspiring to those of us born in the Vietnam-era generation, still wishing humanity might have transcended its lessons by now.

Alethea Paradis

Santa Barbara Schools - Day Two


By Pierce 
Our first morning in Saigon (Ho Chi Min City) began with a trip to the Reunification Palace. Previously known as the Presidential Palace because the president of South Vietnam lived there, the Palace is full of interesting stratagems, maps, exhibits, and other former government rooms used for speeches and media addresses. I was very intrigued by the myriad of intelligence's and maps they had in the secret chambers and underground rooms. Afterwards we ventured to a very traditional Vietnamese buffet. This smorgasbord of unique cuisine was comprised of duck embryos, snails, and and jello made from a root. You know what they say, "When in Nam, nam like the Namese." 

Following our lunch of champions was a cathartic experience of the Vietnam War Remnants Museum. From the guillotines, fire torture grills, and barbed-wire cages, to the deeply sickening faces of the innocents slaughtered, the museum brought the terrifying reality of the war to life. There were dozens of pictures of children suffering from the still present affects of agent orange. It was a truly ineffable experience. After seeing the museum my outlook on the War was transformed completely. In the United States, my generation is always told of the poor, innocent high school graduates naive of the horrors they are exposing themselves to, but seldom do we lament the innocent Vietnamese women and children. Don't get me wrong, I have the most respect and the greatest sympathy for those young men and women who died in Vietnam, however it is enlightening to look at the totality of the events in a new polar opposite light. This experience will not only provide me with a helpful outlook on the war and its repercussions, but it will also help me be more conscious to the fact that there are always to sides to every story and that propaganda exists no matter where you are.


Santa Barbara Schools - Vietnam - Day One

Are we really here?

Palace Hotel, Saigon District One, 1:36 p.m. March 22nd



Twenty-seven hours after hopping on the Airbus in Santa Barbara, we have arrived in Vietnam. Our bellies are full of Pho from "Pho 24" down the street from our hotel, and we have settled in for a quick nap before exploring some authentic Vietnamese cuisine with our guide, Mr. Hau, this evening.

Our three Laguna boys - Carter, Jack and Pierce - will probably not be napping considering they seem to have a never-ending supply of energy. I feel like I've heard enough of Carter's Christopher Walken impersonation for a lifetime, but to these guys it never gets old. You've got to hand it to all of our seven students, though... They haven't complained once through long lines, cramped seats, airline food and all of the other little speed bumps that come standard with long international travel.

Kayla is our least experienced traveler, having never flown further than Washington DC, and she has embraced this whole experience with wide eyes and a smile. The other three - Daniel, Malaya and Bea - are more reserved and reflective. The 30-minute bus ride from the airport to our hotel was a treat in itself. It is semi-organized chaos on the streets, with motorbikes going all different directions and a completely random assortment of architectural styles. There were about 10 puppies being sold in a cage on the side of the road. At first we all admired how cute they were, but it is a little heartbreaking to see them caged up like that...
Okay I miss my dogs terribly.
 
There will undoubtedly be a lot of roadside scenes over the next week that are commonplace her but very foreign to us.

 It is very hot, humid and sticky. It should cool down later this evening, and when we finally tuck in for the night, it's going to be a deep, deep sleep for us all.

Blake 

March 1, 2013

Kristin Druker - A Visionary Teacher


Kristin Druker is a visionary in experiential education. A 9th grade Modern History teacher, at Bishop’s School. Ms. Druker turned the tragedy of 9/11 into an inspiration for a practical project which imparts essential skills in conflict resolution. Peace Conferencing teaches students about the international relations, multi-lateral negotiations, alliances and “understanding your enemy.”  Check out this video which follows her students over an 8 week period, tackling a conflict and establishing a robust peace agreement. http://vimeo.com/58416138



February 19, 2013

Why Students Need to Learn about the Vietnam War

Fred Branfman, author of a number of books about the Indochina War is our featured guest blogger. Working as the Director of Project Air War in 1969 he wrote about the U.S. bombing in Indochina, which he claimed was directed at civilians.

Fred Branfman
Branfman, an American teacher who exposed the secret war to the U.S. Congress and helped stop the bombings was working as an educational adviser for the U.S. government in Laos, when in September 1969 thousands of refugees fled into the Laotian capital of Vientiane. Working as a translator for international media, he began to interpret thousands of villagers' stories, telling of planes dropping bombs.

Told by U.S. officials in Laos that Americans had nothing to do with the bombs, Branfman became consumed with the desire to understand what was happening. Gathering details, he journeyed to Washington and spoke at a special session of the U.S. Senate Committee on Refugees, exposing the U.S. government's covert activities.

Mr. Branfam who lives part of the year in California will be interviewed by Harvard-Westlake students in preparation for their Investigative Journalism trip to Laos in March, 2013.

"Has American Undergone The Spiritual Death Martin Luther King Warned Of? If So, Can It Be Redeemed?" By Fred Branfman

“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual death.”
--Martin Luther King Jr. “Beyond Vietnam” speech, April 4, 1967

I recently watched, and was tremendously moved by, all 10 episodes of Oliver Stone's "Untold History of the United States" (on Showtime.) I strongly recommend it to all of us, but particularly America's young people who have been robbed of a most precious legacy: an understanding of their true history - and thus their future. I can't think of a more meaningful birthday or holiday gift to young people for, as Stone says, “history must be remembered or it will be remembered until  the meanings are clear." As the same U.S. Executive Branch mentality that produced Vietnam is today illegally murdering and weakening U.S. national security interests through the Muslim world, and threatening its own citizens as never before, it has never been more urgent to learn from America’s real history.

I was most moved by Episode 7, on the war in Indochina, whose closing words below constitute not only an epitaph for the Vietnam War but America itself. I thought of Martin Luther King, Jr.'s warning  as I watched this segment, which so movingly chronicled how U.S. leaders waged aggressive war, killing over 3.4 million Vietnamese according to former Defense Secretary Robert McNamara, and hundreds of thousands more Laotians and Cambodians; have never even apologized for doing so, let alone cleaned up the tens of millions of unexploded bombs and environmental poisons which continue to kill, wound and deform tens of thousands of innocent civilians until today, let alone paid the reparations they still owe the Indochinese; and then successfully erased their crimes and misjudgments from the history taught America's young people, guaranteeing that they will be repeated now and in the future.

I watched this episode after reading Nick Turse’s monumental new book, Kill Anything That Moves: The Real American War in Vietnam, which documents the systematic “industrial-scale” slaughter of Vietnamese civilians by U.S. troops,  ordered by top U.S. military officers. Anyone who wants to know what the term “American” really means abroad should read this book.

I cannot say that I am surprised that America's political leaders, media and public intellectuals continue to ignore the U.S. Executive's ongoing inhumanity and murder of the innocent  - particularly through through its global and spreading drone and ground assassination programs and increasing reliance on the automated warmaking I first saw in Laos 40 years ago. America’s elites are as indifferent to the “mere Muslim Rule” today as they were to the “mere Gook Rule”  in Vietnam which Turse so painstakingly documents.

But I must say that I am astonished that even those who justify U.S. leaders'  actions on the grounds of national security have failed to notice the obvious fact that U.S. warmaking in the 1.8 billion strong Muslim World is jeopardizing U.S. national security as never before. Just as shortsighted  U.S. backing of the Shah of Iran created a U.S. foreign policy disaster in 1978, the continuation of such policies today will guarantee many more Irans in the future.

Nothing will threaten Americans more in the coming decade than an irrational U.S. foreign policy that, in return for killing a handful of "senior Al Qaeda" leaders (often replaced by more competent deputies), has turned hundreds of millions of Muslims against it including countless potential suicide bombers, greatly strengthened anti-U.S. forces, destabilized friendly or neutral governments and, as revealed by Wikileaks, vastly increased the danger that materials from Pakistan's nuclear stockpile - the world's fastest growing and least stable - will fall into terrorist hands. It must be understood that today’s U.S. Executive Branch poses a far greater threat to U.S. national security, and to each of us, than its foes.  (Please see my piece on this.)

It is understandable that many of us breathed a sigh of relief when Obama beat Romney, and hope for a Hillary Clinton or Joe Biden victory in 2016. But such hopes should not blind us to the fact that Obama, Clinton, Biden  and the Democrats have continued a bipartisan and suicidal foreign policy that is not only illegal and immoral,  but threatens the deaths of countless Americans at home and abroad, and increasing attempts to turn the U.S. into a police-state in response.

Stone's words below pose basic questions: has Martin Luther King's warning come true? And, if so, what can we do to promote the birth of decency, humanity,  and rationality in this spiritually dead nation of ours?

Excerpts from Episode 7: "Vietnam, LBJ, Nixon & Third World: Reversal of Fortune", from “Oliver Stone’s Untold History of the United States” (Showtime)

The accepted mythology of the time was the U.S. lost the war in Vietnam. But as linguist, historian and philosopher Noam Chomsky has pointed out, "it's called a loss, a defeat, because they didn't achieve the maximal aims. The maximal aims being turning it into something like the  Philippines. They didn't do that. They did achieve the major aims. It was possible to destroy Vietnam and leave". Elsewhere he wrote, "South Vietnam had been virtually destroyed,  and the chances that Vietnam would ever be a model for anything had essentially disappeared."

When an aging and wiser Robert McNamara returned to Vietnam in 1995 he conceded, somewhat in shock, that despite  official US estimates of 2 million Vietnamese dead, 3.4 to 3.8 million Vietnamese had perished. In comparison 58,000 Americans died in the fighting and 200,00 were wounded.

The U.S. had destroyed 9,000 of South Vietnam's 15,000 hamlets - in the north all 6 industrial cities, 28 of 30 provincial towns, and 96 of 116 district towns. Unexploded ordnance still blankets the countryside. 19 million gallons of herbicide had poisoned the environment. Almost all of Vietnam's ancient triple canopy forests are gone. The effects of chemical warfare alone lasted for generations, and could be seen today in the hospital in the South where Agent Orange was used. Dead fetuses kept in jars. Surviving children born with horrid birth defects and deformities. And cancer rates much higher than in the North.

And yet, incredibly, the chief issue in the United States was, for many years, the hunt for 1300 soldiers missing in action, a few hundred of them presumed taken as captives by the North Vietnamese.  High-grossing action movies were made out of them.

No official apology from the United States has ever been issued, and absolutely no appreciation of the suffering of the Vietnamese.

President Bill Clinton finally recognized Vietnam in 1995, 20 years later. Ever since the war American conservatives have struggled to vanquish "the Vietnam Syndrome", which became a catchphrase for Americans' unwillingness to send troops abroad to fight.

For a war that so mesmerized and defined an entire generation, surprisingly little is known about Vietnam today among American youth. This is not accidental. There has been a conscious and systematic effort to erase Vietnam from historical consciousness

Reagan: "It is time that we recognized ours was in truth a noble cause. We dishonor the memory of 50,000 young Americans who died in that cause when we give way to feeling of guilt, as if we were doing something shameful."

It was not only conservatives who whitewashed American history. Bill Clinton: "whatever we may thing about the political decisions of the Vietnam era, the brave Americans who fought and died there had noble motives. They fought for the freedom and the independence of the Vietnamese people."

The outcome has been shrouded in sanitized lies. The Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, dedicated in November of 82,  now contains the names of 58,272 dead or missing Americans.. The message is clear. The tragedy is the death of those Americans. But imagine if the names of 3.8 million Vietnamese and millions of Cambodians and Laotians were also included.

The supposed shame of Vietnam would be finally avenged by Ronald Reagan, the two Bushes and even to an extent Barack Obama,  in the two decades to come.

The irony is that the Vietnam war represented a sad climax of the WWII generation from which Johnson, Nixon, Reagan, Bush Sr., and all the generals in the high command came, those proclaimed by the mainstream media in the late 1990s as "the greatest generation."

Yet that same media ignored the arrogance of a generation that, overconfident from WWII, dismissed Vietnam as a fourth-rate power that could be easily defeated. From what the ancient Greeks called hubris or arrogance comes the fall. And from this initially  obscure war came a great distortion of economic, social and moral life in America. A civil war that polarized the country till this day - with much denied, little remembered, nothing regretted and, perhaps, nothing learned.

History must be remembered or it will be remembered until  the meanings are clear. The second President of the United States, John Adams, once said, "power always thinks it has a great soul and that it is doing God's service when it is violating all His laws".

Which makes the details of the oncoming history a sad, inevitable bloodbath that repeats itself again and again,  as the U.S.A., much too often, stood on the side of the oppressors, propping up allies with financial and military aid, war on drugs programs, police and security training, joint military exercises, overseas bases, and occasional direct military intervention.

The U.S.  empowered a network of tyrants who were friendly to  foreign investors who could exploit cheap labor and native resources on terms favorable to the Empire. Such was the British and French way. And such would be the American way. Not raping, looting Mongols, but rather benign, briefcase-toting, Ivy-league educated bankers, and corporate executives who would loot local economies in the name of modernity, democracy and civilization, to the benefit of the United States and its allies.

During the Cold War politicians and the media sidestepped debate over the basic morality of U.S. foreign policy, by mouthing platitudes about U.S. benevolence and insisting that harsh, even dirty, tactics were needed to fight fire with fire. The Kissingers of the world called it "realpolitik". But even when the Soviet Union collapsed in the early 1990s, our nation's policies did not change, as the U.S. time and again, has taken  the side of the entrenched classes or the military against those from below seeking change.

It was the American war against the poor of the earth, the most easily killed,  the collateral damage.

As was asked at the beginning, was it really about fighting communism, or was that a misunderstood or disguised motivation?

It was George Kennan, America's leading early Cold War strategist who went to the heart of the matter in a memorandum written in 1948. "With 50 percent  of the world's wealth but only 6% of its population,  we cannot fail to be the object of envy and resentment. Our real task is to devise a pattern of relationships which will permit us to maintain this position of disparity.  To do so we will have to dispense with all sentimentality and daydreaming. We should cease to talk about vague and unreal objectives such as human rights, raising of living standards and democratization. We are going to have to deal in straight power concepts. The less we are hampered by idealistic slogans the better."

But George Kennan, who lived to be 102 years old in 2005,  was an intellectual who never sought political office.

Never in his wildest dreams could he have imagined the barbaric proportions of the upcoming Presidency of Ronald Reagan.


January 17, 2013

Got Courage to Tell The Story of Your Adventure Abroad?

Grab your hand-held media and GO! What kind of tools do you need?… Our guest video blog from Emmy-Award winning cameraman and producer Jeff MacIntyre demystifies the video-travel-gear question for emerging “Backpack Journalists.” 


January 12, 2013

Quick Impressions Journal: Vietnam March 2012


By Gabi Safranavicius 

My intention for this piece was not what it turned out to be. I was just another High School student taking yet another opened-ended AP Literature and Language prompt. My intention was to simply address the prompt, to write a narrative of a past memory that had an effect on me. Something broad, and perhaps irrelevant in regards to the rest of the world. But as I wrote my piece, took the shape of the recent lessons I have learned, the shape of the ideas and ideals that I want to share with my peers. It somehow evolved to the things I learned from my trip abroad to Vietnam; took the shape of what Friendship Tours World has taught me of war, poverty, and polar social complexities coming from different worlds.  Morphed from my common day thoughts that cloud the brain and I knew this was the start to my journey of sharing written truths.


Vietnam 

Day One
Heavy eyes and empty bellies stepped out of the airport and into the odor clustered air. Time truly became relative and space seemed to slip away, lost somewhere in the crowd of Vietnamese, arms outstretched to welcome loved-ones from far away travels. Surreal steps taken into Saigon, the perfect beginning to an adventure.

Day Two
Tears. Tears and the vacant feeling left after a through dig any remaining morality. War Remnants Museum left me hollow as a spineless book. I feel tortured to be part of a country that could inflict such pain, but the pictures remind me who the real victims are.




Day Three
Day trip to Mekong to see the birthplace of a revolution. Journalist, camera crew, what is cultural emersion? The people at home want to know. We meet Kim Phuc’s brother and sister-in-law. We see the site of the bombing. We leave not completely unscathed.
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Day Four
Vietnam countryside, we learn not every quite sounds the same. We clean our clothes, shop the markets, and ride bikes through the backyards of local people.  Peeks of third world life are enough for most, as the bike ride turns into a competition. Which white child can pedal away from poverty the fastest?

Day Five
Hanoi here we come. Air is cloudy from the motorcycles that clutter the thin streets, magnifying the smell of gasoline and fish oil. A perfect retreat to never feel alone. As the days fly by I wonder who to pity more, the starving Vietnamese or the American starving for self-esteem?


Day Six
Day filled with sites. Each landmark tells its story to superficial listeners, grasping for something to brag about at home. Hanoi Hilton, Trấn Quốc, and the Presidential Palace, home to prisoners, monks, and Ho Chi Mahan.




Day Seven
Friendship Village, school and home for Agent Orange victims. Some of the children leek eminent joy, infecting the surroundings with the contagious smile. Others continue to stare through us, as if to ask, “Haven’t you done enough?” We learn that the logistics are simple. We exchange tax dollars for bombs, bombs for dead and disabled, dead and disabled for capitalism, and capitalism for tax dollars. I shamelessly brought toys, as if I could fill the void of expired opportunities these children will never have, with games. They don’t understand, that’s how we do it in my country.

Day Eight
We take to the crowded streets, time for souvenirs before our flight home. What does one buy to remember a third world country? You can’t buy poverty, political corruption, or inequitable circumstances, which only leaves jewelry and various polyester t-shirts.  Walking the smog-filled streets I wonder, “Will I miss this place?” Will I miss the dirty, dense air, the fish oil, the congested streets? No. I will miss the smile and gratification of a merchant. The friendly countryside locals. The bashful children, curious, but so outspoken. For these reasons I know that it is the souls of the people that will bring me back here someday.